Deidesheimer Riesling Ortswein trocken Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl 2025

Die Weine und Schaumweine von Reichsrat von Buhl aus Deidesheim sind endlich wieder in aller Munde und wenn es um Rieslinge aus der Pfalz geht, führt an den Weinen von Reichsrat von Buhl momentan einfach kein Weg vorbei!

Der 2015er Deidesheimer Riesling ist als VDP Ortswein klassifiziert und stammt somit aus der neusten Stufe der VDP Pyramide. Der Ortswein ist der Botschafter seiner Gemeinde und steht für sehr charakterreiche Weine aus traditionellen Lagen. Nicht nur preislich gesehen stehen die Ortsweine als Steigerung zum Gutsriesling für den Einstieg in die Welt der klassifizierten Lagen und bieten ein überragendes Preisleistungsverhältnis.

Und wenn das Dreamteam Grosche/Kauffmann für die Weine verantwortlich ist, wird es erst recht interessant. In diesem Fall handelt es sich nämlich sogar um eine deklassierte Erste Lage, denn alle Trauben für diesen Wein stammen aus der Lage des Deidesheimer Herrgottsackers!

Schon im Glas auffallend viel Wein mit deutlichen goldenen Reflexen. In der Nase frische Citrusaromen mit Anklängen von Limetten aber auch einer salzigen Mineralität. Am Gaumen hält der Wein was er verspricht und überzeugt mit einer überragenden Frische und natürlichen inneren Dichte. Ein Riesling par excellence subtil, vielschichtig, finessenreich mit einer wunderbar salzigen Mineralität.


„The citrus-colored 2015 Deidesheimer Riesling is pure and ripe on the nose, pretty intense and concentrated, but still very precise; it is fresh (with lemon flavors) and discreet in its fruity and most of all mineral expression. On the palate, the wine has grip, intensity and character. Fruit charm is not taking over its pure and elegant expression of the Deidesheim terroir, which has rarely been so crisp, pure and salty. When von Winning's Deidesheim Rieslings are round, smooth and charming; the Kaufmann world is straight, crisp and filled with tension.

Wine lovers who are looking for the finest dry Rieslings of the 2015 vintage in Germany shouldn't miss the exceptional wines from Reichsrat von Buhl. Mathieu Kauffmann, born in Sélestat/Alsace and chef du cave at Bollinger in the Champagne for many years, is about to bottle an outstanding series of dry Rieslings. Lead by the Forster Riesling GGs Pechstein and Ungeheuer, these two wines are two of the greatest dry German Rieslings I can remember. Kauffmann's Buhl Rieslings are highly complex, terroir-driven, very mineral and fresh, tightly woven and will develop over many years. Honestly, I was blown away by both the style and quality, but should also add that the 2015s are probably too complex for beginners. You really have to be a Riesling maniac to feel the rhythm of these wines.

Harvest started very early at von Buhl on August 30. Whereas many producers in the Pfalz were saying that they had never picked that early and there was still time to wait, Kauffmann is of the opinion that in warm years, such as 2015, "you can never start early enough, because the ripeness always overtakes you. We even had to force some of our grape suppliers to finish their holidays earlier than scheduled." Kauffmann finds that there are still "too many German grape growers and even producers who think too much in Oechsle (i.e. must weights), and prefer to pick their Chardonnays with 100° Oechsle or more." But then, what can they do after mid-September rainfalls like in 2015? Even we had to run, because the acidity levels went down."

Kauffmann wants to harvest picture-book grapes, which means loose clusters with small, golden/yellow-skinned and absolutely healthy berries. In his best vineyards, the grands crus, he picks just one grape per shoot (or 30 hectoliters per hectare). He processes them straight and they come as whole bunches onto the press. Kauffmann does not use any sulfur or coal to protect or fine the grape must. "Every intervention would rearrange the natural balance and I don’t want to do that," he explains. The best wines are kept on the gross lees without any sulfur until the beginning of spring. "Sulfur makes a photograph of the wine, but I want to make a movie, so I have to keep it on the lees without sulfur as long as possible." The wine is only moved two times after the fermentation has finished, for the filtration and for the bottling. The crus were scheduled to be bottled in July.“
90+/100 Punkte – Trinkreife: 2016-2023